The Elderly Cat

Cats over the age of 10 are considered elderly, and as she ages, our beloved cat may start developing certain conditions which will affect her health.

Her heart, kidneys and thyroid are most susceptible.

There are many conditions that affect a senior citizen cat. Here is one:

Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy - a heart disease where areas of heart muscle enlarge and thicken - is the most common heart disease in cats. Although it develops and progresses over time, its early signs may be subtle or nonexistent. A cat that seems healthy may appear to become very ill very quickly, or even die suddenly.

What to expect

As old cats are often less active, their muscle tone tends to reduce which may further reduce their ability to run, jump and climb. Lack of exercise contributes to the stiffening of joints.

Frequently older cats suffer from a poor appetite as the senses of taste and smell often deteriorate with age. Teeth problems are common and can discourage eating.

Bowel function may deteriorate with age, causing problems such as reduced ability to absorb food nutrients. This can lead to weight loss. Some elderly cats suffer from constipation.

Elderly cats have decreased thirst which puts them at risk of becoming dehydrated. This is particularly dangerous in cats with kidney problems.

Older cats tend to sleep less heavily but more frequently.

Old cats often have poor coats which may make them less resistant to the cold and wet.

Prevention

Older cats benefit from regular health checks. Many veterinary surgeries have geriatric clinics specifically for this purpose where a thorough clinical examination can be performed, checking for teeth, thyroid, heart and other problems. Some clinics also perform blood tests for kidney, liver and thyroid disease, test for infections, check the white and red blood cell count and blood pressure.

Regular booster vaccinations are still advised in old cats. Although unproven, it is thought that the immune system deteriorates with age increasing the cat's vulnerability to infections such as cat 'flu. Boosters stimulate the immune system and help the cat to fight these infections.

As they age cats may have weight problems. Some become fat in middle age but most tend to become thin in advancing years. Regular weighing is therefore important.

Feeding

As older cats drink less, a tinned diet with a high water content is preferable. In addition the cat should have easy access to fresh drinking water. In cats particularly fond of dry food, a few biscuits can also be offered. This may help to reduce the build up of tartar on the teeth.

It may be helpful to provide a litter tray indoors as some control of bladder and bowel movements can be lost with age.

Some medical problems can be managed by feeding specially designed prescription diets. For example, kidney failure is common in elderly cats and a diet restricted in protein and phosphorus may be recommended if your cat suffers from this problem.

Being Considerate

While many cats age gracefully and do not need special treatment, most will appreciate extra considerations for their comfort. Elderly cats should have a warm, comfortable bed in a draught-free area where they can sleep safely and not be disturbed. Older cats often like to stretch out and bean bags and hammock beds on radiators are very popular. The cat may need help to jump onto chairs using cushions or stools as 'steps'. Electric heated pads can also be used to create a warm bed for those elderly cats that really feel the cold.

Some older cats may need help using their cat door - typing the flap open, for example. It is sensible to put a collar with your name and address on in case your elderly cat gets lost, and worthwhile alerting your neighbors if you think this is a possibility.

Particular attention should be paid to the older cat's nails. These are less able to retract and therefore more likely to get trapped in the carpet, or if overgrown, actually to stick painfully into the pad. Your veterinary surgeon will be able to advise you on how and when to clip claws safely. With increasing age, cats are less able to groom themselves effectively and may need to be groomed by you. This will also allow you to check for any lumps or parasites such as fleas which you might otherwise not notice. It may be necessary gently to wipe away any discharge around the eyes, nose or anus using cotton wool moistened in warm water.

Elderly cats usually like to rest quietly away from the hustle and bustle of the busy household. They should be given somewhere to get away from children, dogs and other cats. They may not enjoy the attentions of a new cat or kitten in the house and any new introductions should be made carefully.

Health Problems

Kidney failure is one of the most frequently diagnosed conditions of the elderly cat. Other important geriatric diseases include hormonal problems like hyperthyroidism (an overactive thyroid gland) and diabetes mellitus (sugar diabetes), hypertension (high blood pressure), cancer, periodontal disease (disease of the teeth and gums), arthritis and infections such as feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV).

Older cats often have more than one problem at a time which may complicate diagnosis and treatment. Early recognition of disease and prompt treatment is especially important in the older cat so that a good quality of life can be maintained for as long as possible.

Medications

Liver and kidney disease can affect the old cat's ability to cope with medicine. Most drugs are broken down and eliminated from the body by the liver and kidneys, so diseases of these organs can result in accumulation of drugs in the bloodstream, potentially reaching toxic levels. This is especially a problem if the cat is dehydrated. For these reasons the choice of drug and dose regime is affected when treating the geriatric patient.

Giving tablets to some cats can be traumatic or even impossible if they resent it. If this is the case your veterinary surgeon may be able to change the therapy to one with less frequent dosing or provide an alternative method of treatment.

Treatment is sometimes aimed at alleviating a condition rather than curing it. Such treatment should not be continued if it is causing unacceptable side effects or if dosing is upsetting the cat severely. Quality of life is the most important factor and once this can no longer be maintained, euthanasia will have to be considered.

What You Can Do

Cats are picky about a warm place to nap, but this is critical when they get older.
As with humans, older cats´ immune systems aren't as strong, and getting chilled could lead to respiratory problems, or aggravate any arthritis.
Be sure to keep a quiet warm place for Kitty to nap in year round. His nap place should be isolated from cold drafts in the winter and away from air conditioning vents in the summer.

If Kitty seems to be tinkling everywhere, or anywhere, its best to take him to the vet.
Incontinence is an important indicator that something physical or physiological is going on. Usually this is easy to treat.

Increased thirst is an indicator of diabetes, kidney or liver problems, and these are important to consider with the health care of an elderly cat.

Although your older cat needs fewer calories and more fluids as he ages, to rule out cat health problems, it would be best to take your cat to the vet for a thorough checkup when you notice he is drinking more than normal.

When petting or grooming try to take notice of any lumps or bumps under the skin.
These could be indicators of tumors and should be watched for any changes.
Of course a trip to the vet will put your mind at ease.

When caring for older cats, you might want to consider increasing the number of routine checkups with the vet.
A check up every three or four months could lengthen the life of your older pet, because heart, liver, kidney problems can be treated, if they are discovered early enough.

Older cats need warmth, much as older humans. Ever notice how ´warm´ it is at your grandma's house.
If Kitty can't find a warm place to nap, you can create one for her.
Place a heating pad, on the lowest setting, beneath her favorite blanket in her favorite spot. This will help Kitty stay warm while she naps.

If your kitty goes up to the bowl and tries to eat, but then moves away after only a bite or two or her breath could kill a dragon, this could indicate a dental problem of various sorts. It is best to take her to the vet and get a thorough check up. Veterinary Dentistry has advanced in recent years, and your kitty can survive just fine with few or no teeth.

Check with your vet before switching to a food just because it says "senior" on the package.
Your vet will have recommendations on the amounts of vitamins and minerals, as well as roughage, needed to keep an elderly cat healthy. Not all pet foods are created equal.

For the elderly or those with busy lifestyles, the cat provides affection without the demands of exercise and training required by dog ownership. However, since cats tend to live long lives it is still necessary to ensure that you will be able to provide the cat with the comforts and necessities of life for quite a considerable time.

Cats give 'contact comfort' which is often missing from the lives of the elderly, lonely or handicapped but it also something from which young children derive great pleasure. Quiet moments watching television or reading a book are much more pleasurable when shared with a cat.

Children often prefer to obtain a kitten as they are captivated by the play behaviour of kittens, however very young children need parental supervision when handling kittens to ensure that they do not inadvertently hurt the kitten by cuddling too hard or dropping it.

For the elderly, an older cat may be a very suitable selection and animal welfare shelters often have lovely older cats just waiting for someone to love.

For the busy families an older cat may be easier to manage than a young kitten which will need more frequent meals, training and company than an older cat.

With any older cat, it will take a little time for it to become attached to its new home and owner. Any cat taken into a new situation needs to be confined indoors for a minimum of two weeks or until it is obvious that the cat is well settled and adjusted and considers it is 'at home'. If allowed outside too early the cat may try and return to its old home.

Many people obtain an older cat when it decides to 'adopt' them. Some of these cats may have been traumatised and/or learnt to distrust humans and may take some months before they allow close contact. Cats cannot be forced into a relationship or dominated, and unlike dogs, it is difficult to buy their love. Trying to force your friendship on a cat usually makes it retreat, but by observing the distance to which the cat will allow you to approach without it retreating and then not violating this space, regularly placing food and water at this 'boundary', speaking quietly to the cat as you move about it will usually choose to approach you.

Some cats will always retain a facade of independence but once given, their love and loyalty means you have a lifelong companion.

by Robert Stearns, Pittsburgh Press
 

Cats and Health

Changes in a cat's behavior can be the first signs of illness or disease, said veterinarian James Richards, director of the Cornell Feline Health Center at Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

Changes in eating, grooming, elimination -- when the cat stops using the litter box -- or interaction -- if your cat stops greeting you at the door -- may be your kitty's way of telling you something is wrong, Richards said.

A new report, the AAFP Feline Behavior Guidelines, aims to make behavior assessment by a veterinarian a routine part of health care for cats.

Many people think young adult cats "don't need any kind of health care" and need go to the veterinarian only when they act sick, Richards said.

But cats don't always let us know when they are under the weather.

"Cats are just so good at hiding their illness," Richards said. "In the wild that can serve them well; they don't want to signal to a predator that they are going to be an easy catch."

Our pet cats, however, depend on us to make sure they get proper health care.

Twice-yearly vet visits make sense when you consider that a cat's life span is 15 to 18 years, Richards said.

"We think six months in a cat's life is a significant period of time."

When you and your cat visit the veterinarian, the AAFP says you should be ready to answer these questions:

• Does your cat urinate or defecate outside the litter box?

• Does your cat show signs of aggression, including hissing, biting or scratching people?

• Does your cat exhibit any fearful behaviors that concern you?

• Has there been any change in your cat's behavior or disposition?

Because inappropriate behaviors such as improper elimination and biting are the No. 1 reason cats are surrendered to animal shelters -- and often euthanized -- it's important that veterinarians have the opportunity to look for a physical cause.

I RESCUED A HUMAN TODAY
by Janine Allen

Her eyes met mine as she walked down the corridor peering apprehensively into the kennels. I felt her need instantly and knew I had to help her. I wagged my tail, not too exuberantly, so she wouldn't be afraid.

As she stopped at my kennel I blocked her view from a little accident I had in the back of my cage. I didn't want her to know that I hadn't been walked today. Sometimes the shelter keepers get too busy and I didn't want her to think poorly of them.

As she read my kennel card I hoped that she wouldn't feel sad about my past. I only have the future to look forward to and want to make a difference in someone's life.

She got down on her knees and made little kissy sounds at me. I shoved my shoulder and side of my head up against the bars to comfort her. Gentle fingertips caressed my neck; she was desperate for companionship.

A tear fell down her cheek and I raised my paw to assure her that all would be well. Soon my kennel door opened and her smile was so bright that I instantly jumped into her arms. I would promise to keep her safe. I would promise to always be by her side. I would promise to do everything I could to see that radiant smile and sparkle in her eyes. I was so fortunate that she came down my corridor. So many more are out there who haven't walked the corridors. So many more to be saved. At least I could save one.

I rescued a human today.

FERAL CATS are homeless cats, many of whom were born in the wild; others are pets who were abandoned or have become lost. They are for all intents and purposes wild animals. Those adult stray cats which were once owned, or feral cats of quiet temperament, may sometimes be tamed with patience. However, the feral kitten is often easily tamed if it is captured young enough. Considering the short miserable lives that feral cats suffer, those kittens which can be tamed and adopted by humans are indeed lucky.

Feral moms usually give birth in quiet unseen spots where kittens will not be visible for several weeks. With no human contact they will be totally wild. When kittens begin to romp and play, they are first noticed by humans but are not easily captured. They may be captured in humane traps (available from Last Hope) and should be taken from the mother at 4 to 6 weeks of age. Older kittens can also be captured and tamed but the process gets slower and less successful the longer the kittens stay in the wild. They should not be taken from the mother before they are old enough to be weaned at about 4 weeks. Kittens taken too young are vulnerable to disease and may not survive. The mother cat should also be captured and spayed to prevent future litters.

The process of taming kittens can take from 2 to 6 weeks (longer for some exceptionally skittish kittens) depending on their age and state of wildness. Individuals can differ greatly in temperament even within the same litter. Some may tame up immediately and some may take quite a long time. Any person attempting to tame kittens should be totally committed and patient. The taming process is certainly worthwhile. You are saving lives and producing affectionate loving companions.

The steps involved in the taming process are:
1. Containment (I) in a cage or large pet carrier
2. Periodic and brief handling with a protective towel
3. Containment (II) in a small room
4. Exposure to other humans
5. Placement in suitable adoptive homes

CONTAINMENT I
A feral kitten may hiss and ‘spit’ at humans. They are usually terrified of humans. The kitten which acts the most ferocious is just the most scared, but it is capable of giving you a nasty scratch or bite and will probably try to escape if given the chance. Remember that to the kitten you may be a predator; the kitten may think it is fighting for its life.

ALL BITES ARE SERIOUS. IF BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION AND QUARANTINE THE KITTEN.

Feral kittens should be checked out by a veterinarian and tested for diseases contagious to other cats before you bring them home. Keep them isolated from your pet cats, wash your hands, and wear a smock (or change clothes between handling visits) to protect against the spread of disease from the kittens to pets or from pets to kitten.

If a trap was used to capture the kitten, transfer the kitten to a cage or a pet carrier large enough for a small litter box and bedding. Place it in a small room away from family pets and children. Be careful not to allow the kitten to escape during the transfer process.

For the first two days, do not attempt handling. The kittens must learn to feel safe. Visit them frequently and talk to them quietly, but resist touching. Always move slowly.

Food and water and bedding should be placed in the cage or carrier. Many cages and carriers have food and water bowls attached to the doors so that you can feed and water the kittens without having to place your hand inside. If you do not have a cage, or your carrier is too small for a litter pan, place the kittens in a small room, like a bathroom, in the carrier. Place the litter box in the room and leave the carrier door open so that the kittens have access to the box.

Some people use worn clothing as the kittens’ bedding to get them used to the smell of humans.

HANDLING
After 2 days, select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it, and pick it up in the towel. If the kitten stays calm, pet it gently on the head from behind. Never approach from the front. A hand coming at the kittens frightens them which may cause them to hiss or bite.
If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put the towel on your lap and set it on the towel. Stroke the kitten’s body while speaking in soft, reassuring tones, then release. Make this first physical contact brief. Go through this process with each kitten. After all have been handled, give them a special treat. Baby food or Hills "a/d" brand canned food off a spoon is always a great ice-breaker. Repeat this process as frequently as possible.

Brushing with a soft pet brush imitates the action of the mother grooming the kittens and will help the kitten start to transfer its need for parental love to you. It is also extremely important for the health of the kittens to remove fleas as soon as possible. Kittens become anemic from flea infestation and can easily fall prey to illnesses in this condition. Combing with a flea comb also helps the bonding process.

Never stare at the kittens for prolonged periods. This is aggressive body language to cats. Avert your eyes frequently and lower your head often to display submissive behavior. This will be less threatening to the kittens.

Play with the kittens using "kitty tease" toys (a tiny piece of cloth tied to a string which is tied to a small stick) or lightweight cat toys. Don’t leave the "kitty tease" alone with the kittens as kittens will often swallow string. This can be fatal.

CONTAINMENT II
Within a week the kittens should have made considerable progress. Each kitten will develop at a different rate. They should have access to the room and can be placed in the cage only if necessary.
If there is one that is not becoming tame, place it in a separate cage in another room, away from the others. This will allow you to work with the baby more frequently and will increase it’s dependence on a human. It will also prevent perpetuation of wildness in the littermates. All members of some litters must be isolated as not to reinforce wildness in the group.

A large room may overwhelm a timid kitten and cause increased fear. Bedrooms can be a problem. If kittens become frightened and go under the bed it can be difficult to get them to come out and stressful for them if you force them out.

Also try to kitten-proof the room as much as possible before letting the kittens out into the room. Seal up any nooks and crannies where frightened kittens may enter and become trapped or inaccessible to you. Bathroom sinks often have spaces between the kickboard and the cabinet just large enough for the kitten. Block access to behind bookcases and heavy furniture behind which the kitten can become wedged. Be careful of open toilets and anything which could be climbed and pulled down on top of the kitten causing possible injury. Protect vulnerable knick knacks, clothes, and plants (some poisonous) from curious kittens.

EXPOSURE
When the kittens no longer respond by biting and scratching, encourage friends to handle them as often as possible. It is very important that they socialize with other humans. Feral cats tend to bond with one human so they best adjust to a new home if they are socialized with other humans before being adopted out.

PLACEMENT
Kittens can be adopted out at 8 weeks or so if tamed and socialized to humans.
When screening prospective "parents" remember that the kitten will do best if there are no small children in the home. All the work you have done can be easily shattered by normal kid activity and noise. This is vital to remember when placing the kittens for adoption. The most suitable home is a calm environment so the kittens will feel secure. The ideal home is one which will keep their pet indoors and will take 2 kittens together (actually easier to care for and more fun to watch) or that will have an adult home during the day.

Be sure that you inform the adoptive family that the kitten must be neutered. This can be done as early as 8 weeks of age. You may want to ask for a refundable deposit from the adoptive family to encourage them to neuter. Or you may want to neuter it yourself and ask the new owner to reimburse you. Many forms and contracts exist for doing this. For example, FOCAS, the Humane Society, and the Department of Animal Control all have such agreements.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THIS CAT DOES NOT HAVE BABIES, OR YOU MAY FIND YOURSELF TRYING TO FIND A FAMILY FOR ITS KITTENS.


Source: Feral Cat Coalition
http://www.feralcat.com/taming.html